In this video, we’re going to review how to set up and remove a Service Sanitation Laundry trailer.
Trailer Placement
The first step to setting up a laundry trailer is choosing a location with level ground. Once we’ve confirmed this, we’ll disconnect the trailer from the truck. Next, we’ll head to the back of the trailer and unlock the rear door. The code for the padlock on this trailer will be 0135. Once we’ve lined the numbers up correctly, we’ll push down on the lock and then pull it open to remove it. We’ll then unlock the side door on the trailer. This door also has a lock with a combination of 0135.
Now that both doors are open, we’ll notice there are an array of items and mechanical equipment located in the back of the trailer that will help us set up the trailer. Some of these things include extension cords, water hoses, waste hoses, bladder bags, filters, and a black container full of spare washer and dryer parts, adapters, and more. We also have access to some of the main components of the trailer including the water heater, electrical panels, and ejector pits.
Stabilizer Jacks
Now that we’ve familiarized ourselves with the location of the parts, we’ll open up the black container on the floor in the back of the trailer and find the crank that we’ll use to lower the stabilizer jacks at each corner of the trailer to the ground. These jacks are used to stabilize the trailer, preventing unwanted rocking while patrons are coming in and out of the trailer or when the washer and dryers are in use. When lowering these jacks, we’ll want to remember these are NOT load bearing jacks; therefore, we’ll want to make sure we don’t over crank them.
Plugging in the Power
Once each of the four jacks are lowered, we’ll need to plug in the trailer. This laundry trailer is setup to run on 8-120V 20-amp designated circuits. There are 8 pigtail adapters located in the black container in the back of the trailer that can be used to adapt the 30-amp RV receptacle to a 20-amp standard 120v extension cord. We’ll need to plug in each adapter and extension cord to a designated 20-amp outlet. Additional extension cords can also be found in the back of the trailer hanging from the wall.
Each outlet corresponds with an individual circuit in the electrical panel. Circuit 1 powers the lights in the trailer, circuit 2 powers the HVAC, and circuits 3-8 power each power an individual washer and dryer unit.
Connecting to Fresh Water
With the power up and running, we’ll now need to connect to a fresh water source. This is commonly achieved by connecting a garden hose to the inlet valve located on the driver side of the trailer. To set this up, we’ll grab the brass angled hose fitting out of the black container and attach it to the connection point on the trailer and then attach the hose to it. If we’re without a fresh water source, we’ll need to utilize the bladder bag which can be found in the back of the trailer. The freshwater bladder bag is blue in color while the grey water bag is black in color.
Before unrolling the freshwater bladder bag, we’ll need to make sure that the ground is free of any rocks, debris, or sharp objects as this could puncture the bag. With the area clear, we’ll unroll the bag and then grab the box of attachments and fittings from the black container. From this box, we’ll attach the vent stack, then the water fill valve and cam lock dust cap, and finally, we’ll attach the water supply shut off valve attachments.
Next, we’ll need to grab the water pump from the back of the trailer. To hook up the water pump, we’ll attach the ¾” hose to the side of the trailer and then to the outlet valve on the pump. We’ll then grab a 1.5” hose from the back of the trailer and secure it to the water supply shut off valve on the bladder bag and attach it to the inlet valve on the water pump. Once the hose is attached to both the pump and the bladder bag, open the shut off valve to prime the pump, then we can plug it in.
Connecting the Wastewater
With the fresh water set up, we’ll then set up the grey water discharge. If there is an open sewer that the trailer will discharge into, we’ll simply take the cap off the gravity valve on the side of the trailer. We’ll then head into the trailer to open the gate valve. The gate valve is located all the way at the end next to the last washing machine. We’ll need to pull that valve up to open it.
If there’s no sewer option available, we’ll need to utilize the trailer’s grey water bladder bag which is found in the back of the trailer and is black in color. We’ll set this up similarly to how the freshwater bag was set up, ensuring it’s clear from any rocks or sharp objects. We’ll then attach the white pvc vent stack to the top of the bladder bag, then a 2” male cam fitting to the grey water inlet on the top of the bladder bag, and finally attach the 3” pump out ball valve to the bottom of the bladder bag. We’ll want to make sure this valve is closed and the 3” to 2” adaptor and dust cap are installed on this valve. We’ll then remove the cap from grey water discharge line located on the driver's side of the trailer. We can then install the 1’1/2” to 2” cam fitting to the trailer discharge line. We’ll head to the back of the trailer and grab the 2” grey water hose from the back of the trailer and install one end to the trailer discharge line and the other end to the 2” grey water cam fitting located at the top of the bladder bag.
Activating Propane
Once the power is on and the water connections are secure, we’ll need to turn on the propane tanks for the dryers. By default, each laundry trailer comes equipped with 4 full propane tanks located at the tongue of the trailer upon delivery. It’s recommended that you use 1 tank at a time on each side. Simply turn the knob on the top of the tank that you want to start with and then make sure the lever in front is pointing towards that tank. If there is a larger propane tank onsite, it can be hooked up to the laundry trailer just underneath the 4 tanks on the tongue.
Tear Down
Tearing down the trailer is much like setting it up, but in reverse. To begin the tear down process, we’ll start by turning off the propane or disconnecting any external propane tanks. If any bladder bags were used, we’ll then disconnect and drain all the hoses and attachments from the bladder bags, placing them back in the black box. Next, we’ll roll up the empty bladder bags and place them in the back of the trailer. If greywater was gravity fed into a sewer, we’ll need to go inside the trailer to shut the gate valve that’s located next to the last washing machine.
With all water and discharge equipment disconnected and put away, we’ll start unplugging each of the 8 power circuits, putting the extension cords back on the hangers and the adapters back in the black container. Lastly, we’ll go inside the trailer to make sure everything is closed and all the bolts on the kickplates are fastened down. Once all attachments, hoses, cords, and bags are loaded up and put away in the back of the trailer, we can raise the stabilizer jacks off the ground, close and lock everything up, and be on our way.